Bolting Troubleshooting


THE NUT WILL NOT LOOSEN WITH TOOL:

  1. Take the tool off the application and test. (Recheck fittings)

  2. Make sure the pump is set from 9,000 to 10,000 PSI

  3. Don’t force a smaller tool to do the impossible.
    It can take 1.5 to 3 times the original torque to bust loose.
    Example: A 2" stud according to GE/Westinghouse
    should torque to 3300 ft lbs. Because of heat corrosion the torque necessary to remove
    the nut may be 6600 to 9900 ft lbs.

SOCKET ISSUES:

  1. Is the socket being used a high quality impact socket?
    (JETYD sockets are designed for the huge forces created by hydraulic wrenches)

  2. Insure the socket is fully engaging the nut.

  3. Inspect the socket for cracks before using.

  4. Has the socket become worn out from use on an impact wrench?
    (JETYD recommends that separate sockets be used with impacts since impact tools hollow out sockets and may make them unsafe when used with a JETYD driver)

  5. Altered sockets are more likely to break – use with care, keep body parts clear.

 

TORQUE ISSUES:

  1. Use the right torque chart. Match the model name and size to the name on the chart.

  2. To torque a nut to the desired load, cycle the tool until the tool stops turning. Hold down
    on the rocker switch for a few seconds and check the original pressure setting.

  3. Always check your coupler and tool cycling before your final pass.

  4. In the event of "lock up" on a nut or bolt, pull on the release lever while advancing the tool until the tool is in "Neutral"

  5. Loosen the Jam Nut when adjusting the pressure. Retighten the nut to prevent any pressure variation.

  6. Always take the tool off the application when setting the pump pressure. Adjust the pressure upward and recheck your settings.
    (Pump pressure does not read correctly while being lowered.)

 

Pump Troubleshooting


Gauge shows pressure build-up but the tool will not cycle

  1. Couplings loose or inoperative; Tighten and/or replace couplings. Use Test #1 listed below to isolate problem.

  2. Solenoid inoperative; Check using Test #2 below. If solenoid is bad, replace.

Cylinder will not retract

  1. Voltage to electric pump is too low to line drop or inadequate amperage is available.; Get shorter extension cord or upgrade to 12AWG, 25 amp rating or better. If shop power is adequate, draw power from welding machine or cal rod transformer.

Cylinder pressure will not build

  1. Check to see if sub-plate is worn; Remove screws from pump motor to reservoir, slide Pump motor to the side, tum pump on and while holding down on the button, put your finger on the dump tube (round tube under the directional control valve) - if you feel pressure, then replace the subplate and shear seals.

  2. Check to see if you have leaks from the external relief valve and the 2 oil line connections (bottom of relief valve and connection into pump body’s other end, of oil line. If leaking, retighten with 9/16” open end wrench. SHOP JOB

  3. If pump sounds like alot of pebbles in a tin can, the problem may be a worn motor coupling - remove motor from base plate - using a pair of needle nose pliers remove the motor coupling - if worn replace. SHOP JOB

  4. AIR PUMPS - Faulty Air Valve due to excessive moisture and/or dirt in air supply. Disassemble air valve and wipe any residue from air valve piston·spray brake cleaner into air valve body, dry thoroughly. Disassemble all small air lines and blow Out with compressed air. Lubricate both air valve piston and body with hydraulic oil (sparingly) andreassemble. SHOP JOB

  5. AIR PUMPS - Faulty remote control valve cartridge. Replace.

Pump will not build pressure

  1. Air or electric supply is low; Check air pressure or voltage.

  2. Defective relief or regulator valve; Replace valve. SHOP JOB

  3. Low oil or clogged filter; Fill reservoir and clean filter.

  4. Internal leak in oil line from external relief valve to pump body.; Open reservoir, inspect oil line while trying to build pressure - if leaking tighten fittings or replace.

  5. Worn sub-plate; See cylinder pressure will not build pressure above.

Motor sluggish and inefficient "sounds sick" slow to build pressure

  1. Air or electric supply is low; Check air pressure or voltage.

  2. Clogged filter; Clean or replace filter.

Pump heats up

  1. Improper use; Check air pressure or voltage.

  2. Remote control is left in "on" position when pump is not actively in use.; Clean or replace filter.

Electric pump will not run

  1. Loose electric connections in control box.; Open control box and visually inspect for loose threaded or push-on connectors. Reconnect loose wires. If in doubt check wiring diagram.
    DANGER, BOX CONTAINS HIGH VOLTAGE. ALWAYS UNPLUG PRIOR TO TOUCHING ANYTHING IN CONTROL BOX.

  2. Bad brushes; Change brushes. SHOP JOB

  3. Motor burned up; Replace motor or components whichever is necessary. SHOP JOB .

TEST #1

Attach hoses to pump and tool in the normal manner. Press the advance button and hold it down. If the pump pressure builds and the hoses "flex" but the tool still refuses to cycle, the problem is most likely a loose or defective coupling connection. To fi nd out where the bad coupling is, remove the tool from the hoses and marry the loose ends together and cycle the pump. If the gauge pressure reads no more than 500 PSI, then the bad fi tting is on the tool. A significantly greater pressure indicates that the problem is in either the pump or a hose fitting.

TEST #2

Place a welding rod or thin screwdriver in the opening of either side of the solenoid. Press and then release the advance button. Repeat this process on the opposite side of the solenoid. You should feel the solenoids moving back and forth. If either side is "dead" the solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced. Note: if in an urgent situation, the tool may be cycled manually by pushing the solenoids back and forth through these access holes.

TEST #3

Remove tool from hoses. Cycle pump. If pump fails to build pressure, the problem is with the pump. If it does build pressure, the problem is with hydraulic blow-by in the tool.

TEST #4

Connect tool, pump and hoses together normally and turn pump "on". As oil leaks from the small port under the uniswivel, use a proper size Allen wrench and slowly tighten (clockwise) the set screw positioned between the couplings on the uni-swivel. Continue to tighten until the flow stops plus a quarter turn.

TEST #5

THIS TEST SHOULD BE RUN PRIOR TO EVERY USE OF A HYTORC TOOL

Connect the tool, pump and hoses together as normal. Cycle the pump several times. Cycle the system once more and observe the sequence of operation. As you depress the advance button, the tool drive should turn about. 24 degrees and you should hear an audible "click". On square drive tools, you will also notice that the accuracy assurance levers will move to the rear of the tool and spring forward. At this point, release the advance button. You should see no further movement and after a moment you will hear another audible "click". This is how the tools are designed to operate. If you observe any other sequence of operation, the system is out of order and cannot deliver more than 10% of its designed capacity, Take immediate corrective action. For reference, tools and pumps are designed from the factory plumbed as follows. This ensures that the tool, pump and ONE hose cannot possible be connected up incorrectly.


Tool

Advance Side - Male

Retract Side - Female
Hose

Advance Side - Female to Female

Retract Side - Male to Male
Pump

Advance Side - Male

Retract Side - Female

 

Note:

Connecting two (or any EVEN number) of hoses together creates "one" hose which is plumbed backwards! Male to Female and Female to Male. This will cause the system to operate backwards per Test #5 above. If your hose isn’t long enough. connect 3 hoses together. move your pump or call HYTORC for a longer hose assembly.

 

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